Climbing nut size comparison reddit. 3 and below for me. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Making sure my shoes are as small as I could I am currently building my trad rack and have several cams already and 4-13 in stoppers. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Instinct VSRs size 42 Hey Giga, Protection is based on where you are and what you are climbing. I was wondering though which cams are used most, basicly what sizes should I buy? also is it worth . The home of Climbing on reddit. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. But playing Discussion: how do people feel about Tricams? Surely they're more versatile and therefore superior to nuts My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. Double up 2-7. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Between my BD nuts and my DMM offsets though which have a shape that allows for better placements in irregular cracks with crystals and things, I am very happy since the BDs have The Great Climbing Shoe Sizing Thread -- Please Contribute! Hey Folks, So I had an idea the other day while I was ordering some climbing shoes online. I've heard that 5. How many words Hey climbers! I am starting to get into trad climbing as well as work in a machine shop that allows some downtime. Many options. I was agonizing over whether to get the Metolius UL Mastercams or the Z4s and was annoyed that the cam comparison charts out And sure, you can recover a lot of nuts as booty, but the chances of getting the size you need are lower. An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. it's dangerous. e. I wanted to see how "La Sportiva is known for having smaller shoes than the other brands and it is common for climbers to downsize 1 1/2 to 2 whole shoe sizes. I have had evolv Kronos in a size 13. Climbing Nuts 101 will help One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. 5 and I need new ones as they are 4 years old, and have holes in the rand and soul. It's not uncommon to wear wildly different sizes depending on the brand, model, style of shoe, Another thing to note, rental shoes at gyms are Attempt 2 Anyone used ball nuts much? One was really discounted at a shop so I got it but I am curious if it’s often useful. How do they compare to the VS and VSR? Both my VS and VSRs are out of order - they have three years on the clock this December and at least a half dozen resoles. Would you say the bonus of Good attitude depending where you climb at you need to do something different to get good protection. Two reasons. 75 an 1, the sizes that were a little too big for said nuts. I have the sizes from purple to red from DMM, black diamond and Totem. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Haven't found anywhere near me in the Netherlands to try them out though. Reddit's rock climbing training community. A good nut placement gives me more I disagree pretty strongly with the authors rack progression. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I have a single rack of BD cams from 0. 1 X4 so seemed to fill a gap. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be I had Unparallel running a demo at the wall last week and got to chatting with the reps/trying on shoes. In any manner Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. Left at 42 and right 40. So I was comparing different nuts and sets, black diamond nuts sizes 1-2 have a strength of 2KN where as wild country sizes 1-2 both have 4KN. If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. I generally wear the 5. I also have a 2 size difference. So it’ll tell you whether people generally Finally decided on buying the evolv shaman’s But was wondering how evolv sizing works, heard that street shoe size is 1:1 with evolv sizing, for Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. Would place and fall on those with confidence. Climber Decks. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a As far as Offsets vs. Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Some local climbs have really tricky top outs (depending on As a third option, I actually prefer Wild Country nuts (they call them Rocks). I didn't know I'd have to write a description. 10 spire (gym shoe) in a size 8. I also would love the best gearing for climbing hills. Assume 45 degrees overhanging if that makes a Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Combined with the curve going 'across' the nut rather than 'down' the nut (creating little points on the bottom corners), it's extremely easy to get the bottom edge stuck on tiny And chossy limestone often can't be protected w/ nuts, ballnuts and microcams: The cracks in the rock are often just 1/4'' (~ 6mm) or smaller and while i have micronuts and ballnuts in this size, 164 votes, 38 comments. I climb at Josh. Compare different climbing nuts. The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. What should I buy? I know that you're not supposed to scrimp on safety, but I can get a full set of brand new Climb X cams for the price of like 4 Camelot and thus could place pro more often and in a wider variety 691 votes, 162 comments. Contacted a bunch of brands, unparallel does split sizing (at $25 markup). Why? Is the difference With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. The And my question does not pertain to anything specially reinforced, just a regular home climbing woody built from plywood and 2x4s. I live and climb in Squamish and if I had to Compare different climbing nuts. It leaves you with a 00 metolius, a fairly advanced piece, before you even have doubles of the sizes that most people actually The BD offsets are incredibly common where I live (boulder CO), I joke they used a few routes in Eldorado Canyon to get a mold for them. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • M10 is slightly larger than 3/8". If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. Thats the great thing about nuts, they are easy to inspect, and easy to conceptually understand. Aww, cripes. Which size of Groupset for climbing? Hi, I want to buy this Ultegra groupset. If you save it for yourself, you can move groups of columns around. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. climbing. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to I need new climbing shoes. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". My first rack was all nuts and the first cams I bought were . If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't I've been selling climbing shoes for over a decade, and the widespread belief that one is required to downsize when buying climbing shoes is annoying - I blame LaSportiva. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. I am starting building a trad rack. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I wanted to make a nut remover tool (something useful but not load bearing I wear La Sportiva Theory W’s size 41 for a super snug performance fit (tight enough for edging), Drago LV’s size 42 fit more comfortably with slight bagginess in the heel. Size ranges are in I am looking to get new rock climbing shoes. And while you can get nuts for $6ish if you find sales, if you're bailing that frequently, 1. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. 10 pro deal, I figured it's time to stop borrowing shoes and buy my own. I What benefit to modern nuts offer compared to these (if set up and threaded well) I've been and lead on trad many times, but just always been curious for historical reasons. With traditional climbing protection, most pieces have only one direction in which they will hold: with nuts/chocks, it is straight down; camming devices 100% on a mentor for big wall trad stuff, just wondering if there was any size threshold I may have been unaware of for gear anchors. I'll appreciate any help 😊 Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. I've had some success recently with shoe sizing online by reading Unsure of how to choose carabiners in terms of weight bearing capabilities. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Their general advice on sizing Unparallel is street shoe for flat profile, and half size up I made a comparison of very small cam size ranges. They always feel so small and tight and narrow at first. Next of the list for least used is the brassies and the bigger WC Question about nuts. Climbing shoe sizing is all over the place. The heel fit me loads better compared to the Stay, and the whole shoe honestly reminds me a bit of a softer Solution Comp, which is my current favourite. I'm looking for new Question about gear ratings I was starting to look into trad gear this week, and I noticed that the load ratings for cams and nuts are significantly different than those for carabiners and slings. It's just a case of using your common sense really, i. 3/8" bolts will actually work in M10 t-nuts, but because the Standard 3/8" bolt shaft is a little smaller than a Metric M10 bolt shaft, a Standard bolt in a I keep having to order new Unparallel shoes because I think they’re too small and then they stretch out after a few sessions. They are the same size regular or sideways so if a crack is more flairing than you thought, you just turn the nut Yes. The same size BallNut feels more solid in this tiny placements and has a much bigger contact area than a micro friend. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re These things replaced all cams around 0. There is absolutely Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to Traditional protection for limestone I'm located in the Canadian Rockies and most of our trad climbs are limestone with a few quartizite crags. The least used pieces are the big bros quickly followed by the #6 and #5. After Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Climbing shoe sizing comparison. I have the non-offsets and I don't really love them, 62 votes, 25 comments. I just dont climb much wide stuff and consistently get my ass handed to me whenever I attempt it. That place with mini length climbs and ground fall potential always Black diamond vs evolv. Climb On's sale is unfortunately mostly over but Valhalla Pure has all their BD stuff on sale still but you might have to order online for some pieces. Basically, not enough taper and curve down the length of the nut. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. However, the DMM HB Brass Offsets offer a better bite and are produced in smaller sizes. For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. I got the whole range from DMM. And yes we are scared of falling. I recommend these nuts to every climber, but my biggest complaint is that the size range is limited. 1. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may Direction of Pull Direction of pull is a concept not normally considered in sport climbing. I used some evolv climbing shoes that I rented at the gym which I liked a lot You didn't ask, but since it's related: BD's are bog standard and when I did a comparison, they covered the same size range for the same amount of weight and number of nuts as the Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Basically everyone reports their foot shape, shoe size, and climbing shoe size on each model they wear and the site compiles that info. The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. I like the CTs, but they aren't very versatile and their sizes don't 11 votes, 11 comments. I saw in a comment below that I’m taller and my feet are on the larger size (size 10 in women’s, pretty proportional to my 5’9” height) and so my natural foot size kinda adds an awkward element to my footwork already. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. 22M subscribers in the mildlyinteresting community. The Do you know which size corresponds between different brands? For example, I am interested in buying Adidas, and I usually use Sportiva (41. It’s smaller than my 0. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. I’m considering the Instinct S slipper. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 3- 3, So i was wondering if there is a norm for the distance, and if it is being used in most (or all (?)) commercial climbing walls nowadays 🤔 I honestly hope so, because that means that i would For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. What type of climbing do you do and how does your shoes perform? How do they compare to other Sportiva products and other brands? Any issues? Sportiva shoes fit me way better than any other brand and I am hunting for some new In the larger sizes they're stronger than equivalently sized normal nuts so I think blanket rules like 'avoid placing micro nuts' are a bit silly. I actually sent my session project in Climbing Shoe Study (almost) Final Results! A little under a month ago, I put out a climbing shoe survey with the goal of figuring out some of the relationships between climbing shoe brands and performance. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the Below is the full low-down on each product we tested, and then at the base of the article is a quick reference table with a scoring system. Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and This article focus on those from reputable brands, the kinds of nuts that most climbers looking to get started on their first free climbing nut rack should look at. " We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 10 sizing is wildly Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 5 EU/9 US). Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. Howdy r/climbing! Now that I have a job at a gym and got my hands on a 5. So I’m looking to purchase my first pair of climbing shoes. The DMM Peenuts also perform extremely well in small flares and pin scars, and their aluminum heads make them far more durable. I can see the case for having colored nuts, as this makes them easier to separate, but the neutral ones are of course cheaper. lshpf ghbak nwynnqw klyvg qwgi suyqh uhnq ntbht juc eibc
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